KARL MAYER’s new 4D-KNIT generation of warp knitted fabrics opens up previously unknown possibilities in design and product development. The fabrics’ striking features are distinctive relief-like surface designs; the machine is based on using the double bar raschel technique. An RDPJ 6/2 EL with a clever guide bar arrangement and technical configuration is used to produce these eye-catching articles. The double needle bar raschel machine does not produce a classic spacer textile with monofilaments for spacing, but the space between the cover surfaces is filled with a bulked yarn. In addition, differently shrinking yarns are processed in intelligent combinations on the front and rear side of the warp knitted textiles and different lapping techniques are used.
During the finishing process, this leads to high-low effects with differentiated markedness. Voluminous fabrics with small and flat reliefs or deep and bulky shapes with various motifs are created. Strict geometric arrangements with high-low effects are just as possible as expansive plastic wavy arrangements, sparkling fruit looks or complex imaginative designs with different height profiles. Even hole patterns can be seamlessly and freely placed incorporated into the textiles. Functional clothing and shoes in particular provide breathability and a stylish look with the mesh parts. Additional colour and shape effects can be achieved when using suitable yarns.
Especially designers and product developers in the clothing sector can enter completely new territory thanks to these articles with their futuristic looks and voluminous structure. The athleisure jacket on this page shows the initial opportunities. The stylish outfit combines different pattern parts seamlessly in one piece on the rear side, is comfortable to wear and keeps you cuddly warm as the seasons change. The excellent insulating effect is achieved by filling the plastic structure with air and yarn material. The filament yarns are enclosed by the dense fabric on the surfaces. This should result in few micro-particles being released during washing. Initial comparative tests with nonwovens at the FH Niederrhein have already delivered promising results. The investigations carried out to date on the first machine wash are currently being complemented by follow-up washings. Kettenwirk-Praxis will report on the results soon. A 4D Knit pattern can be seen in the Pattern part of this issue.