Fashion design process from shape memory and conventional textiles

The successful development and implementation of smart clothing require close collaboration among manufacturers, designers, and educators due to the inherently interdisciplinary nature of the field.

The emergence of smart textiles marks a significant milestone in the textile industry, enabling the integration of advanced functionalities into fabrics. Among the various types of smart textiles, shape memory textiles (SMTs) have garnered particular attention for their ability to undergo shape transformations in response to external stimuli such as temperature, light, and mechanical force. This capacity allows for the creation of garments that can dynamically adapt to their environment, presenting new possibilities for fashion design. Despite the promising applications of SMTs, designers and the fashion industry, accustomed to conventional textiles (CTs), have been hesitant to embrace smart textiles. The inherent tension between maintaining the aesthetic integrity of a garment and incorporating the functional capabilities of smart textiles has hindered their widespread adoption in fashion.

The existing body of research on smart textiles, including SMTs, has predominantly concentrated on their technological attributes, with comparatively little attention paid to their potential impact on design processes and aesthetic appeal. This imbalance has contributed to a limited adoption of SMTs in the fashion industry, where marketability and aesthetic appeal are crucial. Thus, the successful integration of SMTs into fashion requires a holistic approach that balances functional innovation with aesthetic value, a task in which designers play an indispensable role. This study investigates the challenges and opportunities associated with the adoption of SMTs in fashion design. It seeks to analyse how SMTs influence traditional design processes, including factors such as design duration, sequence, sketch quantity, and resources. Furthermore, it evaluates the obstacles that designers encounter when working with SMTs, including their levels of satisfaction and perceptions of the textiles’ usability. Through this investigation, this research proposes strategies to enhance the integration of SMTs in fashion design and provide valuable insights for the fashion industry and education. The following research questions are addressed: (1) What barriers do designers encounter when using SMTs in design practices? (2) How do SMTs impact conventional design processes? (3) What strategies can be employed to optimise the use of SMTs in fashion design?

Shape memory textiles: Definition, types, and applications in the fashion industry

Nickel and Titanium’s strength and durability make them particularly suitable for applications requiring structural support.

SMTs integrate shape memory materials (SMMs), such as shape memory alloys (SMAs) and shape memory polymers (SMPs), into fabric structures, enabling them to respond to external stimuli such as temperature, light, or moisture. These textiles have gained significant attention due to their potential to enhance garments with functionalities beyond aesthetics, incorporating smart features such as temperature regulation, moisture management, and adaptive styling.

SMAs, composed of metals such as Nickel-Titanium (NiTi), return to a pre-defined shape when exposed to heat. Their strength and durability make them particularly suitable for applications requiring structural support. SMAs are primarily used in niche applications, including wearable technology and military uniforms, where durability and mechanical properties are critical. SMA wires, gaining popularity for actuation purposes, offer silent operation, precise control, and a high force-to-weight ratio.

In contrast, SMPs provide greater flexibility, lightweight properties, and cost-efficiency. Recent studies have explored SMPs such as polycaprolactone (PCL), PTFE, PVC, and EVA for their low cost, light weight, and high recoverable strain, making them suitable for 4D printing applications in smart textiles. SMPs can also respond to stimuli such as heat, moisture, and light, enabling garments to modify their shape, adjust fit, or adapt to environmental conditions. This versatility extends their potential applications in fields such as everyday fashion, healthcare, and protective gear (Luo et al., 2023; Thakur, 2017). SMPs are categorised by the stimuli that trigger their shape recovery, with thermally-activated SMPs being the most common and widely used in wearable technology. Moisture-responsive SMPs are also under development for use in humid environments, offering potential in medical and weather-adaptive garments, while light-activated SMPs present opportunities for aesthetic applications, enabling textiles to change shape or color in response to light (Mondal & Hu, 2006; Ornaghi & Bianchi, 2023). SMPs can be integrated into textiles through techniques such as lamination, coating, and weaving, contributing to the advancement of smart textiles (Vili, 2007).

Their dynamic, shape-shifting properties offer potential to revolutionise garment construction by facilitating designs that respond in real-time to environmental stimuli or wearer interaction (Lendlein & Kelch, 2002; Tonndorf et al., 2020).

While the functional benefits of SMTs have been widely explored, their aesthetic potential remains largely untapped. However, there are some recent studies, which tried to bring the textile into fashion design. Haynes and Steimle (2024) investigates the integration of SMA wires into textiles, particularly through smocking techniques in apparel, to facilitate interactive, shape-changing designs. Similarly, Huang et al., (2024) examined the use of SMA wires in fashion design, developing experimental fabric samples to demonstrate the potential of SMTs in garment construction.

Research on SMPs largely centers on shape memory polymer fibres, the fundamental building block of fabric production. Recent studies have concentrated on enhancing the mechanical properties, such as improving strength and recovery stress, to further their application in textiles (Garg et al., 2024). These studies focus on structural and chemical blends to optimise performance, as well as exploring self-healing properties (Kouka et al., 2022; Wang et al., 2021). Additionally, research involves creating fabrics from fibres and yarns, and treating CTs with coatings to develop shape memory properties (Benecke et al., 2023; Hu & Lu, 2016). These technologies have also been employed in the production of compression garments (Tonndorf et al., 2020). Moreover, current research in 4D printing is facilitating the development of SMTs with multi-stimuli responsiveness, enabling customisable and adaptive garment designs (Biswas et al., 2021; Wang et al., 2021).

As SMTs continues to advance, the potential for integrating both functionality and aesthetic innovation will be crucial in shaping the future of smart fashion design. However, challenges remain in optimising these textiles for long-term durability and mechanical resilience, which are essential for their widespread adoption across various garment types (Chakraborty et al., 2017). The intersection of material science and fashion continues to push the boundaries of what is possible, creating textiles that not only function dynamically but also meet the aesthetic demands of modern design.

The overview of the fashion design process

In addition to the traditional design process, functional fashion design introduces a user-centered perspective, focusing on performance, comfort, and specific user requirements.

Technological advancements have consistently influenced the fashion industry, particularly in the design and research process. The traditional fashion design process typically involves several key stages, including researching sources of inspiration, conceptualising ideas, sketching designs, and developing technical drawings and prototypes (Lee & Danko, 2017; McKelvey & Munslow, 2011; Seivewright, 2012). These stages affect designers’ design decisions in various design elements such as color, shape, silhouette, volume, fabric, texture, and functionality (Sorger & Seivewright, 2021).

The research phase plays a critical role in the creative process, acting as a means of questioning, exploring, and visualising the information gathered through observation and investigation (McKelvey & Munslow, 2011). Research helps establish the creative direction and narrative of a collection (Seivewright, 2012). Inspiration can come from a range of sources, including films, exhibitions, galleries, architecture, photography, and travel, as well as from books, magazines, and online platforms (McKelvey & Munslow, 2011; Sorger & Seivewright, 2021). Inspiration sources can be divided into primary sources, which are firsthand observations recorded through drawings or photographs, and secondary sources, which are gathered from external sources such as books, journals, and websites (Sorger & Seivewright, 2021). The Internet often serves as the first and most accessible research tool, providing designers with a vast array of images and information (Sorger & Seivewright, 2021).

Once designers collect their inspirations, the process of sketching begins. This stage involves translating random ideas and observations into structured visual concepts. Sketching remains the most common method for visualising design ideas across various fields, including fashion (Lee & Danko, 2017). It allows designers to quickly express their ideas on paper, helping them explore the front and back views of clothing designs, which are inherently three-dimensional objects (Gero & Tang, 2001; Goldschmidt, 1991; Kavakli & Gero, 2002; Schon & Wiggins, 1992).

Following the sketching stage, designers refine their ideas into detailed technical drawings. These technical drawings offer precise, proportional explanations of the garment’s construction, detailing seams, darts, pockets, fastenings, and other elements (Sorger & Seivewright, 2021). Technical drawings not only clarify the design concept but also serve as vital communication tools between designers and production teams. Templates are often used at this stage to streamline the process, enabling designers to focus on the garment details rather than the figure (Sorger & Seivewright, 2021).

After finalising the technical drawings, the next step involves creating physical samples. In professional settings, this stage is usually handled by a separate department dedicated to garment production. However, with the recent rise of digital fashion, this traditional process is shifting. Digital fashion tools allow designers to bypass physical sampling, creating digital versions of their collections or even producing digital-only garments. The integration of 3D virtual simulation tools, such as CLO 3D and Aftereffects, has enabled the creation of dynamic fashion garments that transform visually in real time, expanding both aesthetic expression and interactivity in fashion design processes (Choi, 2022). This approach challenges designers to think beyond the constraints of physical products, opening up new possibilities for digital use cases (Ruzive & Tsang, 2023).

In addition to the traditional design process, functional fashion design introduces a user-centered perspective, focusing on performance, comfort, and specific user requirements (Morris & Ashdown, 2018). Unlike traditional fashion design, which prioritises aesthetic exploration by designers, functional design begins and ends with the user’s needs, often determined through methods such as interviews, focus groups, and wear trials. Functional design integrates physiological, biomechanical, ergonomic, and psychological considerations into its workflow (Gupta, 2011).

As the fashion industry evolves, the emergence of garments that seamlessly blend aesthetic appeal with functional performance underscores the importance of harmonising both traditional and functional design approaches. The traditional design process offers a creative exploration of visual elements such as color, silhouette, and texture, while the functional fashion design process ensures that garments meet functional requirements. By effectively integrating these two approaches, designers can create innovative garments that balance artistic expression with the dynamic functional needs of consumers.

Conclusions

Recent fashion research trend analysis confirms that fashion design is evolving into a multidisciplinary field, with notable growth in areas such as wearable technology (Zou et al., 2022). The successful development and implementation of smart clothing require close collaboration among manufacturers, designers, and educators due to the inherently interdisciplinary nature of the field. Smart textiles integrate material science, electronic functionality, and aesthetic considerations, all of which demand expertise from different domains. (Lewis, 2023). Based on the findings of this study is proposed to facilitate the integration of SMTs in fashion design. The plan outlines key strategies tailored to manufacturers, fashion brands, designers, and educational institutions, addressing the challenges identified throughout the research. While this study primarily engaged fashion designers as participants, their insights were rigorously analysed and synthesised to inform broader strategies. These insights were further refined by the researchers to develop actionable strategies aimed at advancing manufacturing practices and strengthening educational programs to support the adoption of SMTs in fashion design.

In summary, the findings of this study emphasise that the successful integration of SMTs into the fashion industry requires coordinated efforts among manufacturers, designers, and educational institutions. Manufacturers should focus on developing user manuals and educational resources that clarify the unique properties of SMTs, while ensuring safe integration of these materials and making them both affordable and accessible through standardised classifications. Although manufacturing factors are not the central focus of this study, they constitute a critical contextual element that directly shapes the feasibility and scope of design activities involving smart textiles. Among these factors, pricing strategies adopted by manufacturers play a particularly influential role in determining designers’ access to advanced materials. When production costs are high, opportunities for prototyping and creative experimentation become limited, which can constrain material exploration and hinder design innovation (Rosenberg et al., 2023).

Moreover, the reliability of smart textile functionalities is closely tied to manufacturing quality standards. Inconsistent or substandard production can undermine designers’ confidence in the stability and performance of shape memory textiles, ultimately affecting their willingness to integrate such materials into their design processes. The implementation of rigorous quality control systems is essential to ensure the durability and functionality of smart clothing, thereby supporting designers in making informed and creative use of emerging materials (Júnior et al., 2022).

These considerations demonstrate that manufacturing-related variables are not peripheral to design practice but rather form an essential part of the broader system required to support material-led innovation in fashion design.

For designers, the challenge lies in striking a balance between the aesthetic and functional aspects of these innovative materials. This can be supported through strategic promotions and partnerships with manufacturers to ensure designers have access to the latest developments. Educational institutions play a crucial role by incorporating hands-on learning modules and interdisciplinary programs, preparing future designers to work with SMTs in practical settings. Current curricula often focus on theoretical knowledge and secondary resources, creating a gap between learning and practical application. Many designers expressed frustration about the lack of opportunities to interact directly with smart textiles during their education. Hands-on modules that allow students to work directly with SMTs, such as experimenting with shape-changing properties under heat or mechanical stress, can help bridge the gap between theory and practice. Additionally, updating courses to include the latest advancements in smart textile technology—such as new production methods, market trends, and application methods—can better prepare students to meet industry needs. Case studies in fashion design education have shown that the integration of 3D modeling and printing can increase students’ engagement and understanding of advanced design concepts, offering insights into how smart textiles might similarly be integrated into curricula (Lee & Koo, 2018). Providing experiential learning opportunities is another important step. Interdisciplinary programs are also essential for equipping students to handle the complexities of integrating SMTs into design. Combining knowledge from design, engineering, and material science can offer students a well-rounded understanding of smart textiles. Additionally, encouraging research projects focused on new uses and improvements for SMTs can drive innovation and expand their potential in fashion design. By implementing these strategies, educational institutions can better align their programs with the needs of the fashion industry. This approach ensures that future designers are equipped with both the knowledge and practical skills needed to innovate with advanced textiles, addressing the challenges identified in this study.

While this study provides valuable insights into the application of SMTs in fashion design, several limitations must be acknowledged. First, it is important to note that the strategies proposed are primarily based on the perspectives of designers. Further research is required to include insights from manufacturers and educators, which will provide a more comprehensive understanding of the integration process. Additionally, the absence of physical fabric samples in this study prevented participants from fully engaging with the textiles, which may have impacted their design decisions. To maintain consistency and control the environment as much as possible, we ensured that CTs, which were easier to source, were also only viewed on screen. However, participants may have faced additional challenges with SMTs, as most had no prior experience with similar materials.

To address these limitations, future research should incorporate a larger sample size and include a broader range of stakeholders, such as consumers, manufacturers, and distributors, to ensure a holistic understanding of the challenges and opportunities in using SMTs in fashion design. Additionally, collaboration with materials engineering experts is crucial to providing physical samples of SMTs, enabling direct, hands-on experimentation. This approach would facilitate deeper insights and a more comprehensive exploration of the material’s properties. Moreover, the current study revealed differences in design outcomes based on participants’ experience levels. Thus, future studies should consider participant experience as a key variable, recruiting individuals with varying experience levels to conduct a more detailed analysis of its impact on the design process.

Despite the limitations inherent in this study, its contribution is particularly significant, as it addresses a critical gap in research from the perspective of fashion designers. While extensive research has been conducted on the material science and engineering aspects of SMTs, their application in fashion design has received limited attention, particularly from a designer’s point of view. This study significantly addresses that void, serving as a foundational step in examining SMTs within the context of design.

Moreover, this research provides a solid foundation for future studies. By establishing a preliminary understanding, it opens opportunities for further exploration, refinement, and expansion of its findings. The value of this study lies in its role as a catalyst for future research, offering a framework that will facilitate advancements in both fashion design and textile innovation. Since the properties of textiles significantly influence the aesthetic and functional outcomes of fashion products, designers must understand the capabilities and limitations of SMTs to effectively use them in fashion applications. Knowledge of material properties can lead to more innovative designs and applications (Lendlein & Kelch, 2002).

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About the authors:

• S Karthikeyan is from the Department of Petrochemical Technology, SSM College of Engineering, Komarapalayam, Tamil Nadu.

• Dr N Gokarneshan  is from the Department of Textile Chemistry, SSM College of Engineering, Komarapalayam, Tamil Nadu.

• J Lavanya  is from the Department of Fashion Design, SRM Institute of Science and Technology Kattankalathur, Chennai, Tamil Nadu.  

• M Manoj Prabagar is from theDepartment of Costume design and fashion, Vivekananda college of arts and science, Tiruchengode, Tamil Nadu.