KARL MAYER, Lenzing advance warp knitting with cellulose fibres

Partnership debuts scalable Tencel solutions at Premiere Vision.

Karl Mayer and the Lenzing Group have partnered on a joint innovation project aimed at advancing warp knitting using scalable cellulose fibre solutions, with the results set to debut at Premiere Vision in Paris. The collaboration focuses on identifying efficient ways to process Lenzing’s TENCEL Lyocell and TENCEL Modal fibres with Micro Technology on KARL MAYER warp knitting machines, while demonstrating their suitability for premium textile applications.

Produced from natural wood sourced from certified or controlled origins and manufactured through responsible, low-impact processes, TENCEL fibres with Micro Technology feature fine titers that enable the creation of finer yarns. These yarns deliver smooth, lightweight fabrics with enhanced softness, drape and movement—qualities increasingly sought in high-end apparel.

While cellulose fibres are known for their consistent fibre length and strong mechanical performance, their use in warp knitting presents technical challenges. To address these, Lenzing contributed its expertise in fibre production, yarn development and downstream spinning, while KARL MAYER brought decades of experience in warp beam preparation and high-performance warp knitting. Together, the partners tested four yarn variants made from TENCEL Modal and Lyocell using Ring Compact and SIRO Compact spinning technologies.

“We opted for Ring Compact and SIRO Compact spinning technology because it guarantees yarns with low hairiness and better performance and quality of the fabrics made from them,“ says Bernd Schleuchardt, Senior Manager Apparel, Business Development Division, Lenzing. “By combining fibre innovation with downstream processing expertise, we aim to support scalable, industrial solutions that open up new commercial opportunities for cellulose fibres in warp knitting.”

Processing trials on an E 28 gauge warp knitting machine produced three apparel-focused fabric types per yarn. The tests highlighted SIRO Compact spinning as the strongest performer, delivering reduced hairiness, lower fibre abrasion and cleaner machine operation.

“The project with Lenzing has shown that efficient processing of cellulose fibres on knitting machines is possible by using the right fibres and the right spinning process. We are currently working on optimisations to achieve even higher output,” says Markus Otte, Senior Expert, Textile Development, KARL MAYER.

The innovation outcomes will be showcased through a capsule collection spanning lingerie, innerwear and lifestyle applications at Premiere Vision Paris from February 3–5, with Lenzing hosting visitors at stand 6P30.