Emergence of Sustainable Fibres

Emergence of Sustainable Fibres

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While the interest and advancements in the sustainable fibres are encouraging, cost effectiveness in comparison with synthetic fibres is a key factor in enabling commercial success, explains Dr Seshadri Ramkumar.

Interest in new sustainable fibres for developing advanced products is emerging.

Given the global trade volatility, textile manufacturing countries like India and developed economies like United States are racing to come-up with cost effective products and processes. Additionally, sustainability is in the front burner to remain competitive and innovative in manufacturing.

India-based Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA) has been pioneering efforts to utilise milkweed fibres in developing advanced textile products like insulation wear, army wear, etc.

On July 19, 2025, Dr M S Parmar, Director General, NITRA presented farm to fabric aspects of milkweed fibres in a meeting organised by the North India Section of the Textile Institute (NISTI), U K.

Dr R A Lal, Chair of NISTI opened the event with the history of milkweed cultivation in India and its opportunities in advanced textile products.

Dr Parmar while highlighting unique properties compared the characteristics with cotton and polyester. Milkweed fibres have high moisture regain of about 11 per cent and its tenacity and length on par with cotton. Advanced products like sleeping bags with milkweed insulation have been developed. These products were displayed to Prime Minister Narendra Modi, and public during Bharat Tex 2025 event. The Prime Minister discussed the medicinal properties of milkweed and encouraged NITRA to develop milkweed products.

NITRA’s collaboration with India’s National Botanical Research Institute will enable productivity improvement. According to Dr Parmar, the yield per acre is about twice that of cotton and requires less water and other chemical resources.

Being a perennial plant, it is expected to yield fruit till 10 years with yield increasing progressively from the second year.

In addition to process optimisation and product development, NITRA is also engaged with training programs for farmers to grow milkweed plants. NITRA is engaging with farmers to cultivate milkweed plants in the states of Rajasthan, Punjab, and Haryana. NITRA is engaging with social groups such as Ruma Devi Foundation to train ladies in the cultivation and value-addition of milkweed fibres and byproducts.

While NITRA is promoting milkweed fibres, there is growing interest in hemp fibres in the United States. United States-based Cotton Incorporated is pushing cotton into hygiene products.

A collaborative effort between the Nonwovens & Advanced Materials Laboratory at Texas Tech University, USA and Aruppukkottai-based Jayalakshmi Textiles has resulted in using low grade cotton to develop value-added textiles. This oil absorbent product has been evaluated in oil fields in the Thiruvarur area and Ennore thermal plant.

While the interest and advancements in these sustainable fibres are encouraging, cost effectiveness in comparison with synthetic fibres is a key factor in enabling commercial success.

About the author:

Dr Seshadri Ramkumar is a Professor, Nonwovens & Advanced Materials Laboratory in Texas Tech University, Lubbock, TX, USA.

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