The rise of khadi in Gen Z fashion culture
With thoughtful policy, design innovation, and reproducible infrastructure, khadi can be more than a fad—it can be a cornerstone in international debates on sustainable fashion, opines Nealesh Dalal.
In a time when the fashion world is increasingly turning towards sustainability and personal expression, a humble, handwoven fabric of colonial India is quietly finding its way back into fashion—this time, on Gen Z’s shoulders. Something that was once inextricably linked with freedom fighters and Gandhian austerity is now experiencing a revival with a generation that is as global but also local in its consciousness.
From fashion week runways to Instagram reels, khadi has transcended and redefined itself as a cultural icon. But this resurgence is not just a temporary phenomenon. It is a result of deep-rooted shifts in how younger consumers conceptualise identity, sustainability, and fashion.
Khadi: From symbol of resistance to statement of revival
To understand its modern appeal, one needs to go back to the origin of khadi. Woven into the very fabric of India’s freedom struggle, khadi was not merely a cloth—it was a movement. Mahatma Gandhi championed it, transforming it into a symbol of self-reliance, the dignity of labour, and resistance against colonial industrial goods.
But since independence, khadi has slowly fallen off the mainstream fashion narrative. Government emporia and ceremonial wear relegated khadi to a market brimming with synthetic blends and machine-spun products. For decades, it bore an undeserved reputation for being rough, old-fashioned, and hipster-unfriendly.
That stereotype is now gently evolving, led, perhaps anomalously, by India’s newest consumer generation.
Why is Gen Z turning to khadi?
Born between the mid-1990s and early 2010s, Gen Z represents a distinct demographic. They are digital natives, yes—but socially aware, eco-aware, and increasingly questioning the environmental and ethical cost of fast fashion. To them, what they wear matters as a reflection of their values.
Enter khadi: A fabric that checks all the right boxes
Sustainability: Khadi’s low carbon footprint appeals to Gen Z’s eco-conscious mindset. Since it’s handspun and handwoven, it requires minimal energy and water compared to industrial textile production. In a world grappling with climate change, this is a significant advantage.
Authenticity and local pride: Gen Z loves products and brands that have a story behind them. Khadi, being heritage-based and hand-stitched, speaks of an authenticity that mass fashion can never hope to attain. Gen Z is also shopping with local artisans— something that strongly appeals to a generation that values impact and community.
Self-expression and individuality: In a world overindulged with fast fashion ubiquity, paradoxically, khadi permits individuality. Each garment is individual—its feel and fabric have flaws of human imperfection. Khadi is a peaceful insurrection against conformity in an era dominated by visual individuality, largely showcased on platforms like Instagram and Pinterest.
Post-pandemic perspective: The pandemic witnessed a global restart of consumerism. During the time of lockdown and supply chain issues, there was a distinct shift towards conscious consumption. The chant of “buy less, buy better” worked, and khadi, which emphasises quality over quantity, was the perfect fit.
When khadi met the runway
Gen Z’s wardrobe is not experiencing the khadi invasion in isolation. Fashion designers have contributed to transforming the image of this ancient fabric considerably.
Designers such as Rajesh Pratap Singh, Anavila Misra, Akaaro (Gaurav Jai Gupta), and Rimzim Dadu have placed khadi on the runway with modern silhouettes, creative drapes, and even metallic finishes. Singh, particularly with his minimalist approach, has been known to say that khadi is “the most versatile fabric” he has ever used.
By combining ancient weaves with contemporary cuts, such as khadi jumpsuits, blouses, jackets, and loose saris, fashion designers are rendering khadi fashionably. Fashion designers are no longer limited to kurtas and Nehru jackets. khadi today is trendy, light, and hopefully contemporary.
Interestingly enough, most of these designers are cooperating very closely with rural Indian weavers so that the resurgence is not only superficial but monetary as well.
Social media and the renaissance of khadi
The world of social media, too, has played its part in bringing khadi back.
Gen Z doesn’t see fashion through catalogues and physical shops. Social media influencers, reels, second-hand stores, and earthy Instagram pages advise Gen Z on style. Social media sites such as Instagram and Pinterest are filled with slow fashion hashtags that pose khadi clothing in settings where tradition is contrasted with trend.
Thrift accounts, green fashion bloggers, and conscious influencers are dressing khadi up with sneakers, layering it over jeans, or accessorising it with statement pieces, giving the fabric a second chance in perception and consumption.
This visual narrative is significant. It works to reverse khadi from a “heritage wear” category to a “cool wear” category—something trendy, fashionable, and Instagram-worthy.
A fabric with promise and challenges
It does have its problems, though, even amid excitement.
Scalability and Production: Because khadi is handspun and handwoven, increasing production to meet a predicted rise in demand may be difficult. Most weaving clusters remain under minimal infrastructure and outdated tools. Lacking supply, modernisation and capacity-building investments, demand may exceed supply.
Perception Challenges: Even as urban Gen Z is welcoming khadi, the larger segments of the market perceive it as a niche or a premium offering. We must democratise khadi while maintaining its value.
Design Innovation: While designers are experimenting with khadi, the fabric also has unrealised potential in terms of texture, dyeing processes, and utility applications. R&D can explore ways in which khadi can be re-engineered to meet the demands of modern lifestyles—be it sportswear, corporate wear, or interior furnishings.
Policy and Institutional Support: Government schemes such as khadi and the Village Industries Commission (KVIC) have made consistent efforts to popularise the fabric. However, more needs to be done to introduce khadi into contemporary fashion systems, ranging from design school curricula to joint initiatives with high-street retailers.
A bridge between past and future
What’s striking about khadi’s return isn’t just the fashion—it’s the symbolism. In choosing khadi, Gen Z is building a bridge between heritage and modernity, craft and commerce, sustainability and style. They are challenging the notion that traditional fabrics do not belong in museums or textbooks. Instead, they’re wearing history on their sleeves—literally.
This isn’t nostalgia. It’s a nuanced reinterpretation.
In khadi, they do not only learn about a fabric but also a narrative. A subtle rebellion against quick fashion. A link to artisans. A feeling of home. And maybe a future.
While global and local fashion trends continue to oscillate back and forth, the success of khadi offers a compelling case study of revival, exceptionally well done. It shows how a generation of fast lifestyles and digital natives can still actively seek slowness, depth, and sustainability.
With thoughtful policy, design innovation, and reproducible infrastructure, khadi can be more than a fad—it can be a cornerstone in international debates on sustainable fashion.
Gen Z might not be turning wheels in their backyard, but they are turning a new page. This new chapter is invigorating khadi, not just as a reminiscence of the past, but as a weaving of the future.
About the author:
Nealesh Dalal is the Founder of JD School of Design, and Design Gurukul and Managing Trustee of JD Institute of Fashion Technology. He began his career in the design education industry in 2002. His years of experience has led to in-depth awareness, strategic judgement and understanding which has helped in the successful integration of new age courses. The adaptation of edutech in Dalal’s endeavours has helped to cultivate interactive classrooms and give students access to innovative resources that make classes meaningful.
