GOTS is committed to provide rules and tools fostering responsible business practices
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the worldwide leading standard for the processing of certified organic fibres. It encompasses stringent ecological, social and human rights criteria, backed up by independent certification throughout the entire textile value chain. GOTS is operated as an independent non-profit organisation dedicated to the common good. GOTS sustains itself through annual fees of €150 per certified facility. In this interview, Rahul Bhajekar (RB) and Claudia Kersten (CK), explains what services is GOTS offering to the textile industry and what is their certification process to Divya Shetty.
Can you give us a brief overview about GOTS.
RB: The standard is dynamic, continuously evolving and improving, with criteria updated every three years through an open and transparent revision process. The scope of GOTS certification extends across a diverse range of final products, including fibres, yarns, fabrics, clothing, home textiles, mattresses, personal hygiene products, and food contact textiles.
CK: GOTS serves as a comprehensive solution to sustainability challenges within the textile processing industry. Companies in the textile sector benefit significantly from GOTS, gaining access to a comprehensive set of rules and tools that empower them to navigate sustainability challenges effectively. The advantage of having one common standard is particularly noteworthy, as it enables textile processors and manufacturers to export their products with a single, universally accepted organic certification valid in all major markets. This transparency ultimately empowers consumers to make informed choices, opting for products sourced from genuinely green value chains.
In the current global context, how is GOTS contributing to addressing challenges in the cotton scenario worldwide, particularly concerning sustainable and organic practices?
RB: GOTS plays a crucial role in advancing sustainable and organic practices within the organic cotton industry. Our dynamic standard is at the core of this effort, fostering continuous progress in textile processing methods with the least possible environmental impact, under strict controls on natural and synthetic chemical inputs and with respect for labour conditions. Our evolving system of integrity measures ensure that certified companies consistently meet these high standards.
Additionally, GOTS actively supports farmers in their transition from conventional to organic cotton farming through our in-conversion label. This initiative facilitates the growth of organic cotton production, addressing challenges at the grassroots level.
CK: Moreover, our active involvement in education and collaboration is key. We’re committed to raising awareness among stakeholders and we connect them from field to fashion —farmers, manufacturers, and consumers—about the benefits of organic and sustainable practices. Collaborating with industry stakeholders, governments, and NGOs allows us to leverage collective expertise and resources, as exemplified by our recent partnership in hosting the Organic Cotton & Textiles Conference with over 230 attendees in Indore, India. These initiatives create platforms for collective action and dialogue toward a more sustainable cotton industry.
Could you elaborate on any specific sustainable initiatives or projects GOTS has recently launched to further enhance environmental and social standards in the textile supply chain?
CK: Most important is the triennial revision of the Standard itself, to ensure that GOTS remains an up-to-date solution. In the latest version, GOTS 7.0, released in March 2023, we’ve introduced impactful measures, including a revised Social Criteria section that places a heightened focus on broader human rights. Notably, the inclusion of recycled organic fibres as additional material underscores our commitment to sustainability and circular practices in the textile industry. But the key aspect of GOTS 7.0 is its responsiveness to emerging regulations on human rights and environmental due diligence for companies. To empower textile companies, GOTS 7.0 introduced a six-step due diligence process. This equips GOTS-certified operations to proactively identify, assess, and mitigate adverse impacts throughout their supply chains. Additionally, the GOTS Due Diligence Handbook offers clear guidance to Certified Entities, aiding compliance with various domestic due diligence laws and upcoming EU legislation.
RB: GOTS continually raises the bar for responsible practices in the textile industry. An essential step in this direction is our initiation of the OECD Alignment Assessment process for GOTS Version 7.0. This alignment not only adapts to emerging regulatory demands but also ensures GOTS remains at the forefront of sustainable standards. Moreover, our ongoing advocacy for social criteria within farming standards is a part of our commitment. GOTS presented a motion to the IFOAM OI General Assembly, advocating for the integration of social criteria throughout the IFOAM Family of Standards which was accepted. This effort reflects our dedication to holistic and inclusive sustainability across the entire value chain.
CK: We have always been pioneers. Let me give you two recent examples; In a world first, together with the European Space Agency (ESA) and AI company Marple we have launched a new demonstrator project that aims to show the potential for remote satellite monitoring of organic cotton cultivation systems. Another example is our “Controlled Supply Chain Scheme” Pilot Project, which was strategically developed to overcome the obstacles that often deter small-scale operators from pursuing GOTS certification.
For businesses looking to adopt sustainable practices, what are the key steps and requirements for applying for GOTS certification?
CK: The path to obtaining GOTS certification involves several steps. The journey begins with a top-level commitment in the company applying and the comprehensive understanding of the GOTS Standard. The Standard documents, the manual, the conditions for the use of GOTS signs etc. are publicly available on our website. For initial guidance, companies can connect with one of our dedicated GOTS Regional Representatives. In complex instances, seeking advice from a GOTS-approved consultant is advisable. Subsequently, the key steps in the certification process include the selection of a GOTS-Approved Certification Body. Once chosen, businesses must then submit a detailed application that provides insights into their facilities and operations.
The process further entails undergoing an on-site audit. Upon successful completion of the certification process, businesses receive a GOTS Scope Certificate. This certificate provides evidence that the company is allowed to process GOTS goods. Once the certified company sells GOTS goods within the scope listed, the Certification Body issues Transaction Certificates and Label Release for those goods. This meticulous approach assures businesses and consumers alike that the certified products adhere to the highest criteria of organic and sustainable production.
In today’s competitive market, what sets GOTS apart as a certification standard?
RB: GOTS stands out in today’s competitive market as the leading certification standard due to its comprehensive and holistic approach, making a ‘full product claim’ by setting detailed environmental and social criteria throughout the textile value chain. Unlike other standards that may solely focus on tracing certified fibres, GOTS sets itself apart by addressing the broader spectrum of sustainability concerns. This approach is in stark contrast to generic claims often found on labels of other textile products, lacking third-party certification and susceptible to greenwashing. GOTS, therefore, not only meets the surging demand for sustainable and eco-friendly products but also offers consumers a reliable and transparent guarantee of the environmental and social responsibility ingrained in the entire production process.”
CK: Moreover, Global Standard gGmbH, the operating unit of GOTS, distinguishes itself as an independent non-profit organisation committed to the common good. Unlike for-profit standards or standards funded by their members, GOTS sustains itself through a modest annual fee for each of the approximately 13,000 certified facilities worldwide, regardless of size. This financial independence further reinforces GOTS’ dedication to impartiality and underscores our commitment to champion sustainability across the textile industry.
As the Managing Directors of GOTS, what do you see as the most significant challenges and opportunities in the textile industry’s journey towards greater sustainability, and how is GOTS positioned to address them?
CK: The challenges for the textile industry changed recently. 20 years ago, when GOTS started, it served as an instrument for pioneers who voluntarily chose to demonstrate their commitment to and operationalisation of certified sustainable value chains. GOTS is used as risk and reputation management tool, as a tool to increase efficiency (e.g. companies do not need an own traceability system), and as a tool to differentiate products in the market. With the new and upcoming supply chain regulations GOTS acquired the additional role of helping companies show compliance with the laws.
A major ongoing challenge is that sustainability always comes with a price, for example, a company that pays better wages and protects the environment through wastewater treatment plants must charge more for their final product than a company that does not have those additional costs during production. Sustainability means to internalise costs and calculate the true price of a product, so that it is not the workers or the environment paying the difference.
RB: The primary challenge for sustainability is the relatively low understanding of the term among all players, including consumers. This leads to attempts at greenwashing by organisations that show a sustainable face externally without actually contributing a whole lot to the concept. Another concern is the “sustainability for profit” concept which can lead to attempts to mislead and cheat. Sustainability is a philosophy that needs to be inculcated and followed by an individual because one believes in it. Keeping up appearances does not foster confidence or responsibility. We at GOTS provide a tool to the textile industry with clear rules regarding elimination of harmful processes, and dangerous chemical inputs, along with social and environmental practises. It even includes ethical business behaviour. Followed diligently, GOTS can provide a vital asset in a company’s sustainable journey.
With the global focus on sustainable and ethical business practices, how does GOTS envision the future of the textile industry, and what role does it play in shaping a more environmentally conscious and socially responsible landscape?
CK: GOTS envisions a future textile industry marked by heightened environmental consciousness and social responsibility. As a leader in this landscape, GOTS is committed to provide rules and tools fostering responsible business practices, not only aligning with domestic and international laws but going beyond; with always stricter criteria to support and challenge the industry in continuous improvement. By emphasising full traceability for the entire value chain, risk-based due diligence, and a broader human rights focus, GOTS actively contributes to the industry’s shift towards genuine sustainability and supports each of the 17 UN Sustainable Development Goals.
