Karl Mayer yarn monitor gives warning of yarn breakage

The new MULTIGUARD stop motion from KARL MAYER can make an important contribution here. This innovative system gives a warning in the event of yarn breakages or tension peaks, and generates parameters that can be used for internal production data management as well as external quality assurances within the framework of a quality management system.

Modern sensor technology and data processing systems can be used to control all the important processing parameters and also to implement a wide range of optimisation measures. The production sequences can be optimised, as well as entire value-added chains. The efficient monitoring of yarn tension and feed during warp preparation can increase weaving efficiency by up to 5 per cent. The new MULTIGUARD stop motion from KARL MAYER can make an important contribution here. This innovative system gives a warning in the event of yarn breakages or tension peaks, and generates parameters that can be used for internal production data management as well as external quality assurances within the framework of a quality management system.

MULTIGUARD continuously determines the tension values of each individual yarn at the exit of the creel and transmits the data to a computer for comparison with the target values. This generates a clear status report. The coloured indicators show the customer immediately which creel position lies within the tolerance, warning or stop ranges. This enables him to intervene quickly in the warping process if there are any deviations from the target values. The specific, measured tension values are displayed in a compact diagram. They can be used for internal analyses and for quality management of the warping process.
KARL MAYER has also developed the PROACTIVE-Warping three-level, modular recording system, whereby each level contains more information. Module 1 manages all the basic data supplied by sensors on the warping machine relating to the warping or beaming quality. For example, the data relates to the exact positioning of the bands in relation to the drum axis. Level 2 complements these values with optical analyses from an integrated camera on the machine, whereby the focus is on the width, position and parallel arrangement of the bands. In module 3, the data is also transferred to the quality record from the creel monitoring system, i.e. the individual yarn tension values from the MULTIGUARD system.

MULTIGUARD was launched as a prototype for the first time at ITMA 2019, and this innovative system generated a huge level of interest. “The possibility of detecting critical deviations in yarn tension levels early on, and to intervene in order to adjust them was well received by our customers,” says Martin Fuhr, the Head of Development in KARL MAYER’s Warp Preparation Business Unit. A Belgian customer has already ordered the new yarn monitoring system. Further promising projects are currently being negotiated. MULTIGUARD is suitable for every type of creel. It is integrated into the machine’s software and monitor on new machines.

A bralette full of promise.

Modern technology and fresh, new ideas produce stylish designs and offer production advantages. Lisa Bahr has shown how this can be done in her work for her master’s degree. This student of Textile Products/ Textiles at the Hochschule Niederrhein (University of Applied Sciences, Niederrhein) has developed a completely new bra design and associated bralette using the features offered by the JACQUARDTRONIC® LACE machine – based on the motto, “smart and speedy”. This innovative item of lingerie is made from just two lace pieces with two seams joining them together to produce the final garment – and moulding, pads or underwiring are no longer required. The shape of the cup is built into the textile itself.

“I wanted to give the bust the best possible shape, so I focused on the concept of two-way elasticity. Conventional lingerie lace is only stretch in one direction. When used in a design that requires very little making-up, the circular shapes are flattened out. The effect is the same as that of a sports bra or minimiser.” To put her idea into practice, this young designer relied on the expertise and knowhow of KARL MAYER, and on the performance of a high-bar JACQUARDTRONIC® LACE machine. As with normal lingerie fabrics, she processed all-over elastane on the high-performance lace raschel machine, but combined the uncovered yarn with a covered yarn as the pattern yarn.

“The stretch, core-spun yarn can be processed better in the pattern guides. It also retains the textile characteristics of the fabric,” explains Lisa Bahr. This student was inspired by the organic shapes of floating bubbles when creating her design, which features circular motifs in a subtle interplay with transparent and opaque effects. The result is a bralette with a seductive look, a comfortable fit with few seams, a short time-to-market, and low production costs. A special little trick was used during production, i.e. the design of the back section of the bralette can also be used to produce the matching briefs.

A new, sure-fire success is in the
starting blocks

KARL MAYER has expanded its range of machines with piezo jacquard technology for producing stylish shoe fabrics, and the new RDJ 6/1 EN has now been incorporated into the series comprising the RDPJ 7/1 EL and RDJ 5/1 machines. This new machine has a better price, and operates faster than the higher-bar version. However, there is very little difference in terms of the design potential. Almost 90 % of the jacquard shoe fabrics currently produced can be manufactured on the RDJ 6/1 EN. The configuration of this new machine makes it ideal for producing engineered spacer textiles. Compared to the RDJ 5/1, the RDJ 6/1 EN has one extra guide bar, EN drive and a wellthought- out yarn feed system to the jacquard bars, and offers extended design possibilities, a higher product quality, and easy pattern change. The cost is still competitive.

The RDJ 6/1 EN is available in the gauges of E 22 and E 24, and has a working width of 138”. The distance between the knock-over comb bars can be adjusted continuously from 2 mm to 8 mm. Customers can now buy a flexible production machine with five guide bars, one split jacquard bar, whose split bars can operate in a counter lapping operating mode, and an EN pattern drive. It can also produce an extensive range of fabrics. Dense structures can be worked, as well as a wide range of patterns with holes, which can be of any size and placed in any location. The result is attractive shoe fabrics with a specific breathability. If the split jacquard bars are moved in a counter lapping operating mode, the contours of the openings are exceptionally clear. In this case, the yarn is fed from two sectional warp beams. This facilitates yarn drawing-in and doubles the yarn running times – with a positive effect on the productivity The EN drive makes a further contribution to increasing the efficiency.

The seven electronic guide bar drives enable the patterns to be changed very easily and flexibly, and the costs of buying, storing and changing the pattern discs are eliminated. Like all KARL MAYER’s machines, the RDJ 6/1 EN can also be operated very easily. A new feature compared to the RDJ 5/1 is that the machine and knitting elements are equipped with LED lighting as standard. The increased visibility simplifies handling even more, especially when drawing-in the yarns. This new doublebar raschel machine is completely compatible with the RDJ 5/1 and the RD 7/2-12 EN as far as the knitting elements are concerned. This reduces the storage requirements for spare parts.

The RDJ 6/1 EN was presented to a wide audience for the first time at the in-house show held at KARL MAYER (CHINA) during ShanghaiTex, which took place from 25 to 28 November 2019. The visitors asked many questions about the new machine. Yuji Yamamoto, the Product Manager at NIPPON MAYER, is preparing to have many discussions on various projects in the next few months. Mass production was scheduled to start in September 2019, and the first machines have already been sold.

A Raschel machine from and for China

With its new machine KARL MAYER brings fresh impetus to the market of patterned Raschel fabrics in China. The newcomer with the designation RJ 5/1 was launched at an in-house show held at KARL MAYER (CHINA) during ShanghaiTex, 2019, where it was a real crowd puller.

Especially due to its excellent value for money, this highly efficient model catches the manufacturers’ attention. Offering attractive acquisition costs, the RJ 5/1 is more productive than comparable competitor products. Moreover, the machine has a highly stable and very precise machine run. The textiles produced on this machine impress by their outstanding quality. Featuring trendy designs and a style that minimizes making-up, the possible products of the RJ 5/1 are tailored to the needs of the Chinese market.

With this machine from local production – manufacturing site is KARL MAYER (CHINA) – the Product Manager, Kriss Wang, wants to address the domestic customers belonging to the commodity market. He sees great potential for modernization projects in particular. “We submit a cost-efficient offer especially to those RSJ users, who want to modernise their factories”, explains this textile expert. The patterning portfolio of the RJ 5/1 machine includes traditional articles from the RSJ sector such as charmeuse, made with three guide bars, as well as elastic and rigid Power Net constructions.

With its enormous design possibilities, this new development encourages especially the current seamless trend. Back and front parts with opaque areas, lace-like tapes and contourings for making-up are made in one piece, directly during fabric production. Leg openings and arm holes of the free-cut article do not have to be seamed. Only very few seams are required for closing the styles during the final processing. One example was shown during the in-house show at KARL MAYER (CHINA). In the course of the machine presentation, a 130” model produced a swimwear fabric in a gauge of E 32, with a lot of chic and easy make-up. Even the KARL MAYER lettering was seamlessly integrated into the eye-catching element ensemble.

The RJ 5/1 is available since China New Year, in the gauges of E 32 and E 28 and in a working width of 130-inch.