Innovations in eco textile colouration

Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are changing dye formulation and colour management in the textile industry, informs Chaitanya Deshpande and Prof Ashok Athalye.

The global textile industry is undergoing a significant change toward sustainable, smart, and flexible dyeing technologies. Traditional dyeing methods, known for high water use, energy consumption, and chemical waste, are being reviewed in favour of low-impact synthetic dyes, bioengineered colourants, and improved application techniques. The development of salt-free reactive dyes and low-temperature disperse dyes has already started to lower waste levels and boost process efficiency.

New technologies like supercritical CO₂ dyeing, which was initially used for polyester, are now being adapted for cotton and polyester-cotton blends through new dye chemistries. This change greatly reduces water and chemical use. At the same time, thermochromic, photochromic, and pH-sensitive dyes are allowing textiles to react to environmental changes. They find uses in camouflage, sportswear, and medical monitoring.

In biotechnology, genetically modified microbes and enzyme-based dye production are taking the place of petrochemical dye methods. This shift offers biodegradable, circular options that lessen environmental damage. Meanwhile, AI and machine learning tools are improving colour formulation, boosting first-shot match accuracy, and speeding up production processes. This helps create a more data-driven and sustainable dyeing environment.

These innovations are not only changing how textiles are dyed but also preparing the industry for a stronger, environmentally aware, and technology-driven future.

Sustainable and eco-friendly dyes

Bioengineered dyes are changing the textile industry by using biotechnology to create sustainable options instead of synthetic dyes. In addition to these developments, EarthColors technology represents another important movement toward sustainability in textiles. This technology takes non-edible agricultural waste, like nutshells, leaves, and other plant materials, to create natural dyes. Together, these advancements are shaping a more sustainable and responsible textile industry.

Digital textile printing moves toward sustainability

Digital textile printing (DTP) is changing the textile industry by providing a sustainable option to traditional wet processing. New pigment-based inks now enable water-free printing on different fabrics, eliminating the need for steaming or washing. This greatly cuts down on water, energy, and chemical use, making it perfect for eco-friendly brands and small-batch production. The technology also supports mass customisation and quicker design turnaround, meeting the needs of today’s fashion and interior markets. With ongoing advances in printhead technology and ink chemistry, DTP is poised to become a key part of greener textile manufacturing.

Advancing SCO₂ dyeing for versatile textile applications

Supercritical CO₂ dyeing has long been known as a sustainable method for colouring polyester with disperse dyes. It is now making progress in more complex fibre systems. Recent developments show its successful use with natural fibres and polyester-cotton blends. This success comes from hybrid dye chemistries, like reactive-disperse mixtures, and process changes designed for fibre compatibility. By focusing on molecular dye design, substrate pretreatment, and controlled supercritical conditions, researchers have achieved good dye penetration and fixation without water or typical additives. These innovations mark an important move toward closed-loop, water-free dyeing for both synthetic and cellulosic textiles. They position supercritical CO₂ technology as a scalable and environmentally friendly option compared to traditional water-based dyeing methods.

Smart Chromic dyes for functional textiles

• Thermochromic and pH-sensitive dyes are a type of colourant that reacts to different stimuli. They are increasingly used in camouflage systems, sportswear, and medical textiles. Thermochromic dyes change colour with temperature changes. This property makes them great for dynamic camouflage and wearable sensors.
• Photochromic dyes respond to UV light, allowing them to change colour reversibly. This makes them useful for outdoor clothing and controlling visibility. pH-sensitive dyes react to shifts in acidity or alkalinity. They are used in medical textiles to track wound conditions or skin health. These smart dyes let textiles do more than just look good. They provide interactive, adaptable, and diagnostic features that align with the future of smart materials.

Biotechnology-driven colorants

Biotechnology is changing textile colouration by developing bio-based and enzyme-synthesised dyes. Scientists use genetically engineered microorganisms like bacteria and algae to produce pigments in a scalable, non-toxic, and resource-efficient way. This new method greatly reduces the use of harmful chemicals and lowers water and energy consumption compared to traditional dyeing methods.

At the same time, enzyme-catalysed dye synthesis is becoming a sustainable option to regular petrochemical processes. This method allows for precise and controlled reactions under mild conditions. Together, these advancements show a shift towards biodegradable, circular, and environmentally friendly dyeing systems driven by biotechnology.

AI and Machine Learning in textile dyeing and colour management

Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are changing dye formulation and colour management in the textile industry. New tools now allow for precise colour prediction, better formulation, and smart recipe correction. This reduces resource use and speeds up production. One notable innovation is Datacolor Match Textile. This software quickly and accurately matches colours using special algorithms and colour libraries. It improves the accuracy of first shot matches and creates the most cost-effective dye recipes for both exhaust and continuous dyeing. By cutting down on trial-and-error, reducing waste, and boosting efficiency, AI-powered tools like Match Textile help make textile coloration more sustainable and based on data.

References:

• Colorifix. (2024). Colorifix. Colorifix.com. https://www.colorifix.com/
• huue. (n.d.). Huue. https://www.huue.bio/
• Wang, H., & Memon, H. (2023). Digital Textile Printing. Elsevier.

About the authors:

Chaitanya Deshpande is a research scholar pursuing PhD in Textile Chemistry at the Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai, having industrial experience in the textile colourant organisation.

Prof Ashok Athalye is a faculty and Head of the Department of fibres and textile processing technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai